Wanjajeon (pan fried meatballs in egg batter)

Wanjajeon (pan fried meatballs in egg batter) (Korean Bapsang)

Most Korean homes make several types of jeon dishes (pan-fried battered food) for their holiday feasts. Wanjajeon is among the popular choices. Meatballs are called gogi wanja in Korean and used in many traditional dishes such as soups or hotpots. When they are egg-battered and pan-fried, they are called wanjajeon. They are also commonly called “donggeurangttaeng,” meaning “a round thing.”

To make jeon, the meatballs are gently pressed into minipatties. I prefer to use a mixture of beef and pork, but you can also use all-beef or all-pork. To achieve a smooth texture, take extra time to finely chop the vegetables and mix all the ingredients very well by hand. The meat patties can be prepared ahead of time and pan fried on the day of serving. Enjoy it on your Chuseok table or simply as an appetizer or side dish with any meal.

Ingredients:
450 grams ground beef (or combination of beef and pork)
150 grams tofu, squeezed and crushed
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
1/2 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons minced garlic
Salt (about 1/2 teaspoon) and pepper to taste
3 eggs, beaten well
1/2 cup flour
Vegetable or canola oil for pan frying

Combine all the prepared ingredients, and mix very well by hand until everything is evenly blended, crushing any remaining big pieces of tofu.

Shape the mixture into 2- to 3-centimeter balls, and then gently press between your palms to flatten. 

Dredge the patties in flour one at a time, coating well. Shake off excess flour.

Heat a nonstick pan over medium-low heat. Coat the pan evenly with 1/2 tablespoon of oil.

Chuseok’s diverse culinary traditions

In kitchens across the nation, families gather together to make traditional Korean dishes for Chuseok, one of South Korea’s largest annual holidays. 

This Sunday, households will be busy crafting songpyeon, half-moon-shaped rice cakes, and other delicacies to offer up to ancestors in appreciation of a good harvest this coming Monday morning. 

Those ceremonial tables, loaded to bursting with carefully prepared food, will vary from home to home, serving as edible symbols of the foodways of each family, of their hometowns and provinces of origin. 

The regional diversity of Korean cuisine plays no small role in influencing what food is put on the ceremonial table. 

From Gyeonggi Province and Seoul to Gangwon Province; the Chungcheong, Jeolla and Gyeongsang provinces; and Jejudo Island, families will be paying tribute to their own regional culinary traditions by offering up the cuisine of their birthplaces to their forefathers. 

In Seoul, according to 9SPICES CEO and Ssalgage owner-chef Hong Shin-ae, meat-based dishes take up a lot of space on the Chuseok table. 

Celebrity food stylist and researcher Hong, who heads her own cooking studio and hansik restaurant, hails from Seoul. 

“Like other households, we knead songpyeon and make taro root soup,” Hong, 38, said in an email interview. “We make fish pancakes, grilled fish and then braised dried pollack, but the majority of the dishes tend to be meat-oriented like bulgogi, galbi jjim and Korean meat patties.” 

On Jejudo Island, abalone, like the braised ones pictured here, are often prepared for Chuseok.

In contrast, tilefish and abalone are staples on Jejudo Island, Hong revealed, a natural outcome, it appears, of the abundance of fresh seafood in the region. 

Seafood, however, is not the only delicacy on Jejudo Island ― myoga ginger, according to “Amusing Story about Korean Traditional Festival Foods” (2009), is another ingredient traditionally used during Chuseok.

In Gangwon Province, rice cakes and other food made from corn, buckwheat, potatoes or yams are put on the ceremonial table, Hong said, while Chungcheong Province is famed for its whole cooked chicken.

Being relatively closer to the ocean, families from both the Gyeongsang and Jeolla provinces tend to mostly prepare seafood dishes, according to Hong. 

“Our elders have said that in the Jeolla provinces, in particular, fermented skate is a must,” Hong said. 

Le Chamber co-owner-bartender Lim Jae-jin, who was born in North Jeolla Province’s Gochang County, confirmed this, stating, “I believe that a seasoned skate dish is always put on the ceremonial table.” 

The star mixologist recalls the fermented skate stew that his mother would make for Chuseok. 

In the Jeolla provinces, fermented skate, which is pictured here with steamed pork slices and kimchi, is a Chuseok staple.

“It’s very refreshing,” said Lim, 32. 

While serving skate is a tradition of the Jeolla provinces, octopus, according to Shy Bana and Bana 1924 CEO Jay Song, is customary in his native Busan. 

“One whole octopus is blanched, then placed on its head, with its eight legs shaped like the bud of a flower, on a plate,” restaurateur Song, 43, said in a phone interview. 

Whole octopus, like those pictured here at the famed Jagalchi Market, is customarily prepared for Chuseok in Busan. (Korea Tourism Organization)

Song went on to explain how mussels are also customary in his hometown. 

Not all cities and counties in the Gyeongsang provinces, however, prepare a large amount of seafood for Chuseok. 

According to Haap owner-chef and Uigitu Haap executive chef Sin Yong-il, “not a lot of seafood dishes” are prepared in his native Daegu. 

While regional customs influence how each household prepares for Chuseok, family traditions play a key role in the experience, according to Sin, who revealed that his family places tea instead of the customary wine on the ceremonial table. 

“Each household’s individuality is very strong,” Sin, 41, said, recounting his own experiences with a certain fondness, suggesting that Chuseok is a special day that holds a unique place in each person’s heart. 

Kkaennip kimchi (perilla kimchi)

Kkaennip kimchi (perilla kimchi) (Korean Bapsang)

Kkaennip is a fragrant herb that is widely used as a vegetable in Korean cuisine. It is a variety of perilla, which is a member of the mint family, and has a distinct, robust flavor. The fresh leaves are usually used as ssam (wraps) for grilled meat or fish, or added to other dishes such as bibim guksu (spicy noodles), savory pancakes or jjigae (stews) for extra flavor. However, pickling kkaennip, either as jangajji or kimchi, is hugely popular in Korea. Kkaennip jangajji and kimchi are staple summer side dishes but also traditional ways to preserve this fragrant vegetable to be enjoyed during the off season. The jangajji version is typically pickled in soy sauce. Here’s how to make the kimchi version. Pick up a leaf with chopsticks and wrap a bit of warm rice in it to eat. It’s delicious!

Ingredients:

● 50 to 60 kkaennip (perilla leaves)

● 2 to 3 tablespoons gochugaru, Korean red chili pepper flakes

● 1 tablespoon fish sauce

● 1 tablespoon soup soy sauce (or use more fish sauce)

● 2 teaspoons minced garlic

● 1 teaspoon sugar

● 1 teaspoon roasted sesame seeds

● 1/2 cup water or dashima (dried kelp/kombu) broth

● (Boil a 5-cm piece of dashima in 1 cup of water for about 5 minutes and then cool with the dashima in it.)

Wash the kkaennip thoroughly under running water one at a time. Hold the stems together, and shake off the excess water.

Place them in a colander to dry or pat dry with a paper towel. 

Mix all the seasoning ingredients, including the water (or dashima broth), well in a small bowl. Place 3 or 4 leaves at a time in a container with an airtight lid, and spread a teaspoon of the sauce all over. Repeat the process with the remaining leaves. Rotate the location of the stem of each batch to level the stack.

Pour any remaining sauce over the leaves when all the leaves are used up. Cover tightly with the lid. Let it sit at room temperature for a few hours and refrigerate. You can start enjoying it right away, but it will keep well for weeks.

Samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup)

Samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) (Korean Bapsang)

Samgyetang is a chicken soup made with a small, whole chicken and ginseng. It’s an iconic summer dish in Korea. As strange as it sounds, Koreans eat this boiling-hot soup to beat the heat and stay energized during the summer. In my house, it’s a nourishing comfort food that we enjoy all year around.

Typically, samgyetang is made with a young chicken, which is known as a Cornish hen in the U.S., for its tender and tasty meat. If you need to feed more people, cook two small chickens in a larger pot rather than a large chicken.

The chicken is stuffed with soaked sweet rice (a.k.a. glutinous rice). Garlic, ginger and jujubes (dried red dates) are other common ingredients. Some people stuff the chicken with ginseng, jujubes, etc., along with the rice, but I like to boil them in the broth to draw out the maximum flavors. Whatever you do, leave enough room in the cavity for the rice to expand in volume as it cooks, or the rice will be undercooked.

The ginseng-flavored meat is tasty and tender, and the broth is rich and delicious. Also, the sticky rice stuffing that’s infused with the chicken and ginseng flavors is to die for. If you’re trying it for the first time, samgyetang will be nothing like any other chicken soup you’ve had before.

1 to 2 servings

Ingredients:

● 1 small, young chicken (about 700 grams)

● 1 fresh ginseng root

● 3 tablespoons sweet rice, soaked for 1 hour (yields about 4 tablespoons soaked)

● 5-6 plump garlic cloves

● 1 thin ginger slice (about 2.5 centimeters)

● 2 to 3 jujubes (dried red dates)

● 1 scallion (white part)

● 5-6 cups of water

● 2 scallions, finely chopped, to garnish

● Salt and pepper to serve on the side


Clean the chicken. Do not cut off the neck or tail if they are still attached. They help keep the rice inside the cavity. Place the cleaned chicken on a cutting board or a large plate. Clean the inside of the cavity with a paper towel to remove the blood.

Stuff the cavity with the sweet rice and a couple of garlic cloves, leaving room (about 1/4 of the cavity) for the rice to expand as it cooks. 

Tightly close the cavity with a toothpick or a small skewer. This will keep the rice inside the cavity while being cooked. Then, cross the legs and tie together with kitchen twine. Or, you can make a cut on the bottom part of one thigh and insert the other thigh through to keep the legs crossed.

In a medium-size pot, place the chicken and add 5 to 6 cups of water (or enough to cover the chicken). Add the garlic, ginger, jujubes and ginseng to the pot. If the chicken came with the neck cut off, add to the pot. 

Bring it to a boil over medium heat. Skim off the foam on top. Cover, and boil for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and boil, covered, for about 20 to 30 minutes. Adjust boiling time depending on the size of the chicken.

Spoon off any visible fat. Serve piping hot with the chopped scallions and salt and pepper on the side so each person can season to taste.

Oi kimchi (cucumber kimchi)

Oi kimchi (cucumber kimchi) (Korean Bapsang)

One of the greatest joys of summer is the abundance of fresh vegetables. Here, I made a quick and easy kimchi with cucumbers. Summer cucumbers are very crispy and tasty! Always look for cucumbers that are firm and slender. Lightly salt the cucumbers first and let them stand for a while to draw out water. This process gives the cucumbers an extra crunch. You can eat this cucumber kimchi 20 to 30 minutes after making it. If you like it mellow, leave it out at room temperature for a few hours overnight. It is best eaten within three to four days.

Ingredients:

● 3 Korean cucumbers or 5 to 6 kirby (pickling) cucumbers

● 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt (less if using table salt)

● 1/4 small onion, thinly sliced

● 1 to 2 scallions, roughly chopped 

● 1 1/2 tablespoons Korean red chili pepper flakes (gochugaru) (use 2 tablespoons for spicier kimchi)

● 1 tablespoon fish sauce (myulchi aekjeot)

● 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

● 1/4 teaspoon grated ginger

● 1/2 teaspoon sugar

● 1 teaspoon sesame seeds

Cut the cucumbers crosswise into 4-centimeter-long pieces. Quarter each piece lengthwise. Sprinkle the salt evenly all over the cucumber pieces. Let them sit for about 30 minutes.

Drain the cucumbers in a strainer to remove any water. Do not rinse the cucumbers.

Add the onions, scallions and all the remaining ingredients to the salted cucumbers.

Toss everything until the cucumbers are well coated with the seasonings. The cucumbers will look dry at this point but will release moisture as they absorb the seasonings. 

Hobak buchim (zucchini pancakes)

Hobak buchim (zucchini pancakes) (Korean Bapsang)

One of my favorite things to make with summer zucchinis is hobak buchim. Like pajeon and kimchijeon, hobak buchim (also called buchimgae) is a variation of savory Korean pancakes. You can make this recipe simply with zucchini, or add some other vegetables such as perilla leaves, chili peppers, scallions or onions to complement. I added sliced sweet onions in this recipe. Salt the julienned zucchinis and squeeze out the liquid for a crunchy texture. Save the zucchini-flavored liquid to make the batter. This recipe makes a few small pancakes, but you can make them larger, and then cut them into small pieces before serving, or simply tear them with chopsticks as you eat. 

Ingredients:

● 1 medium zucchini (about 220 grams)

● 1/2 teaspoon salt

● 1/4 medium onion, thinly sliced

● 1/2 cup flour or buchim garu (Korean pancake mix)

● 1 egg

● Vegetable or canola oil for frying

Cut the zucchini into match sticks. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Let it sit for about 15 minutes until it is wilted and has released some liquid. Squeeze the liquid out from the zucchini, keeping the liquid in the bowl. 

Add the onion slices, egg and flour (or buchim garu) to the bowl. Mix well with a spoon. If the zucchini mix is too stiff, add a tablespoon or two of water.

Heat a skillet with two tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add about 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter and spread it evenly into a thin round shape. Depending on the size of the pan, you can cook 4 to 5 pancakes at once. Cook until the bottom is light golden brown, about 2 minutes. 

Turn it over, adding more oil, and press it down with a spatula. Cook until the other side is light golden brown, about 2 minutes. 

Repeat the process with the remaining batter. Serve hot with a dipping sauce.

Dwaejigogi doenjang gui (doenjang marinated pork)

Dwaejigogi doenjang gui (doenjang marinated pork) (Korean Bapsang)

This doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste) marinated pork is another great option for your Korean BBQ this summer. No doubt, pork marinated in a spicy gochujang sauce ― dwaeji bulgogi (aka jeyuk bokkeum) ― is more popular these days. But this preparation, which is also known as maekjeok, dates back to early Korean history, long before chili peppers were introduced to Korea. Maekjeok evolved over time, and it’s believed to be the origin of today’s bulgogi. 

Pork butt (aka Boston butt) is the best cut of meat for this dish. Pork loin works well too. The salty, savory doenjang adds a deep umami flavor to the pork without overpowering it. I added a little bit of acidity to the marinade to brighten the doenjang taste and bring the flavors together. Doenjang-flavored pork pairs well with buchu (garlic chives). I served it on a bed of stir-fried garlic chives and minari (water dropwort) along with the vegetables in which to wrap the meat and ssamjang.


Ingredients:
450 grams pork (Boston butt or loin), thinly sliced 

For the marinade:

1 1/2 tablespoons doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine
1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon juice
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons grated onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon finely grated (or juiced) ginger
Pepper to taste

For optional vegetables:

60 grams buchu (garlic chives)
60 grams minari (water dropwort) 
Salt to taste
Oil for stir-frying

For the wraps:
1 or 2 heads of red or green leaf lettuce
10 to 15 perilla leaves (kkaennip)
Crown daisy (ssukgat)
Ssamjang

Thinly slice the meat, if not presliced.

Combine all the marinade ingredients in a bowl and mix well.

Add the meat, and mix well until evenly coated. Marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Cut the optional vegetables into 5-7 centimeter lengths. Heat a skillet with a tablespoon of oil, and briefly stir-fry the vegetables until slightly wilted. Salt to taste. Transfer to a plate.

Heat a grill pan or a skillet over medium-high heat and add the pork slices. Immediately lower the heat to medium. The marinade will burn if the heat is too high. Cook until the pork is cooked through and slightly caramelized, one to two minutes each side. Turn over a couple of times to prevent the marinade from burning.

Serve on a bed of the optional stir-fried vegetables along with the vegetables for the wraps and ssamjang.