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Friday, June 22, 2012

Mul-naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles in chilled broth)


Mul-naengmyeon. (Institute of Traditional Korean Food)
Mul-naengmyeon is a dish of buckwheat noodles in chilled broth that is garnished with radish kimchi, pickled cucumber, Korean pear and slices of pressed beef. Originally it was served covered in the winter with a thin layer of ice over it, but nowadays people enjoy this dish year-round.

Ingredients
400 g buckwheat noodles (dried), 15 cups water

300 g beef (brisket/shank), 8 cups water

Fragrant seasoning: 20 g green onion, 20 g garlic

Seasoning sauce: 1/2 tbsp clear soy sauce, 2 tbsp sugar, 3 tbsp vinegar, 2 tbsp salt, 1/2 tbsp fermented mustard

50 g cucumber, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 tbsp water

170 g radish, 1 tsp salt, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp vinegar

1 tsp fine ground red pepper

1/5 ea pear, 1/2 cup water, 1 tsp sugar,

2 eggs, 1 kg water, 1 tsp salt

1 tbsp pine nuts, 0.5 g shred red pepper

1. Clean the beef and wash the fragrant seasoning.

2. Put the beef and water in the pot, and heat it up for 10 min on high heat. When it boils, lower the heat to medium, simmer for 1 hour, add green onion and garlic, simmer for another 30 min (1 kg).

3. Take the beef (300 g) out from the broth, slice it into pieces 4 cm-wide, 2 cm-long and 0.2 cm-thick. After the broth cools down, skim the fat and season with seasoning sauce.

4. Wash the cucumber and halve lengthwise, slice at intervals of 0.2 cm-thick diagonally, soak it in salt water for 20 min, then remove and dry (43 g).

5. Shred the radish into 5 cm-long, 2 cm-wide and 0.2 cm-thick, marinate with salt, sugar, vinegar and fine ground red pepper for 20 min (100 g). Peel the pear, cut it into a half-moon shape, dip in sugar water (70 g).

6. Remove the tops of the pine nuts, wipe the nuts with dry. Cut the red pepper into shredded pieces 2~3 cm in length.

7. Put the eggs, water and salt in the pot, heat it up for 5 min. on high heat. When it boils, lower the heat to medium, boil for another 12 min. Take out the eggs, put in cold water, then peel the eggshells and cut into two pieces.

8. Pour water in the pot, heat it up for 12 min. on high heat. When it boils, add noodles, boil for 2 min. Take the noodles out from the pot, wash in cold water by rubbing, make coils with noodles and drain in a strainer (830 g).

9. Place the noodles in a bowl, garnish with beef, cucumber, radish, egg, pear, pine nuts and shredded red pepper, then pour the cold broth over.


Tips
Cold radish, pickled kimchi juice in the beef broth, or just kimchi juice may be another choice for the broth.

In summer, young summer radish kimchi may be a tasteful broth.

More fermented mustard and/or more vinegar in the dish is an option.

(Adapted from the Institute of Traditional Korean Food)

Sikhye (rice punch)


Sikhye (Institute of Traditional Korean Food)
Sikhye is a punch made by fermenting steamed rice in malt water. Chilled sikhye has a unique sweet taste and is beloved by Koreans. Sikhye is usually served on national holidays because it is believed to help digestion and stimulate blood circulation.

Ingredients
● 1 cup malt powder, 12 cups water

● 2 cups non-glutinous rice, 2 1/3 cups water

● 1 cup sugar

● 1 tbsp pine nuts

1. Put the malt powder in warm water at around 40 degrees Celsius and let it sit for 30 min.

2. Fumble the soaked malt powder with your hands, sieve through a strainer. Discard the solids after squeezing, sink the malt water. When the sediment settles, pour the clear water on top out gently.

3. Wash the non-glutinous rice, soak in water for 30 min. Then drain in a strainer for 10 min.

4. Remove the tops of the pine nuts and wipe the nuts clean.

5. Put the rice and water in the pot, heat it up for 4 min. on high heat. When it boils, continue to boil for 4 min. Lower the heat to medium, boil for 3 min. When the rice become sodden, lower the heat to low, steam it for 10 min. (880g).

6. Put the steamed rice, malt water and sugar into the thermo-pot (60~65 degrees Celsius), keep in there for 3-4 hours.

7. When 7 or 8 rice grains have floated to the top, remove all the rice from the pot.

8. Pour the fermented water into the pot, heat it up for 5 min. on high heat. When it boils, skim the foam off.

9. Cool the rice punch, put in a bowl and top with rice grains and pine nuts.

Tips
● If the rice is left in the pot until lots of grains float, the punch may be sour.

● When making a lot of rice punch, boil it for 20 min. more.

(Adapted from the Institute of Traditional Korean Food)

Friday, June 15, 2012

Eochae (parboiled sliced fish fillet)


Eochae. (Institute of Traditional Korean Food)
Eochae is a dish of parboiled white fish fillets and vegetables with starch coating that are color-coordinated and placed around a dish. It is served with a vinegar red pepper paste sauce. Because it is a chilled dish, milder white flesh fish, such as gray mullet or croaker, should be used.

Ingredients
● 300g croaker, salt, ground white pepper

● 50g cucumber, 20g red pepper, 15g brown oak mushrooms, 2g stone mushrooms

● 30g mung bean starch

● 60g egg

● 5g pine nuts

● 5cups water

Vinegar red pepper paste:
● 2 tbsp red pepper paste, 1 tbsp vinegar, 1/2 tbsp sugar

1.Remove the scales of the croaker and wash. Slice fillets from both sides of the croaker, peel the skin off. Wipe off water, and cut fillets into 3 cm-wide, 5 cm-long and 0.3 cm-thick strips. Marinate them with salt and ground white pepper for 10 min.

2. Wash and slice cucumber.

3. Panfry egg for garnish strips, cut to same size as cucumber.

4. Mix cucumber, red pepper, brown oak mushrooms, stone mushrooms and croaker slices with mung bean starch thoroughly.

5. Pour water into the pot, heat it up for 5 min. on high heat. When it boils, scald cucumber, red pepper, brown oak mushrooms and stone mushrooms for 30 sec., respectively. When the starch becomes clear, take them out, cool them down in water, and drain. Scald the slices of croaker for 1 min. When the starch becomes clear, take them out, cool them down in water, and drain.

6. Place the croaker slices, cucumber, red pepper, brown oak mushrooms and stone mushrooms on a dish in a circle, top with pine nuts in the center.

7. Serve with vinegar red pepper paste.

Tip
● White flesh, such as sea bream and flat fish are recommendable for this dish.

(Adapted from the Institute of Traditional Korean Food)

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Maesil in season


Summer fruit ready to be made into an extract that doubles as seasoning and tea


In South Korea, it is called “maesil,” in Japan, “ume” and in China, “meizi.” In English, this sour, mouth-puckering fruit often goes by Japanese apricot or Chinese plum. Whatever the name, it is now in season.

Though not consumed raw for various reasons including the potential presence of toxins within the seeds, when fermented into an extract it can be used as a seasoning or to make tea.

The extract can range from sugary and floral to slightly tart with a wine-like depth; and because maesil is generally harvested in June or July, now is the time to start making it.

When this time of year rolls around, boxes of the fragrant plums are hauled home and bags of sugar and huge jars are brought out. Alternating layers of clean, green maesil and sugar are stacked in jars and left in a cool, dry place to ferment.
Chungmewon’s shade-grown “namgo” maesil sports a green hue (Chungmewon)

When ready ― the aging period can run anywhere from 100 days to three years ― the extract is added to hot or cold water as a beverage, or to spice up dishes when cooking. It is, essentially, a household staple.

“Most houses have some maesil extract,” said Martha Hwang from traditional tea house Moon Hyang Jae, where maesil tea and maesil extract are sold. “You can put a spoonful of the extract into a meat marinade or when you saute fish.”

“It is believed that maesil extract is effective at getting rid of gamey scents in food,” Hwang explained why it is commonly used as a seasoning.
Tea house Moon Hyang Jae’s maesil tea is made from an extract that uses green plums from Gwangyang (Park Hae-mook/The Korea Herald)
Chungmewon

“We also add it to water when our children have upset stomachs,” she added. “Many enjoy the tea as a post-meal digestif and it also said to be good for hangovers.”

According to the official website of maesil producer Chungmewon (www.mesil.net), the plum has high mineral and vitamin content and was used in traditional Korean medicine in the past.

In short, it has been consumed as a health food for centuries.

While it is most commonly enjoyed as an extract, it can also be made into a wine and the fruit can be pickled and enjoyed as a “banchan,” or side dish.

The versatile nature of the fruit is evidenced by Chungmewon’s ability to take the “namgo” varietal of maesil raised on its farm in South Jeolla Province and whip out 18 different products.

Chungmewon makes everything from a particularly toothsome jam to a sweet, fiery gochujang-slathered pickle with those plums.

The namgo varietal raised at Chungmewon possesses a ruddy, blush hue and, according to Chungmewon president Kim Young-sub, “is firm-fleshed, preserves well and possesses a deep fragrance that makes it ideal for making maesil tea or wine.”

While it is easier to purchase the products ready-made, here are some tips and recipes from Chungmewon for those who want to try make them at home.

Maesil tips
Chungmewon president Kim Young-sub emphasizes the importance of buying maesil after June 5 this year, when the seed has ripened and hardened.

Here are Kim’s guidelines for when to make maesil pickles, wine and tea for namgo and other varietals as well.

June 10 ― 15: Maesil pickles

June 15 ― 20: Maesil wine

After June 20: Maesil tea, when the fruit has ripened a bit, for a fragrant extract

Where to buy

Chungmewon’s maesil products including jam, pickles and extract are sold at the Myeongin Myeongchon corner located at 10 Hyundai Department Stores nationwide.

Moon Hyang Jae; 106-2 Hwadong, Jongno-gu, Seoul; (02) 720-9691; open from noon to 10 p.m. daily; maesil tea costs 6,000 won hot or cold, maesil extract costs 25,000 won per liter, maesil pickles cost 50,000 won for 500 grams

By Jean Oh (oh_jean@heraldm.com)

Maesil tea extract
Ingredients:
● 10kg maesil

● 10kg sugar

Directions
1. Select thick-fleshed maesil, wash and then dry.

2. Alternate layers of maesil and sugar in a sterilized, large-mouthed jar. When nearly done, put a final, thick layer of sugar on top and then seal and store in a cool, dark place.

3. After 15 days, when the sugar has liquefied, stir occasionally.

4. If the namgo varietal has been used then ferment extract for at least six months, then strain and boil lightly to get rid of any hint of alcohol. After the mixture cools, put it in a sterilized jar and store in a cool place. (Note: The fermentation period varies from recipe to recipe. According to Hwang, Moon Hyang Jae’s maesil tea, for example, is made from an extract that has been fermented for 100 days. Chungmewon’s Kim says to adjust fermentation period for other varietals.)

5. Add an adequate amount of the resulting syrup to cold, hot or warm water and drink. Moon Hyang Jae’s Hwang recommends a 3-to-1 ratio of water to extract when making tea.

Maesil pork belly
Ingredients:
● 200g samgyeopsal (pork belly)

● 10 ml maesil wine or maesil extract mixed with soju

● 1/3 tsp salt

● 1/4 tsp black pepper

● 20 cm cooking foil

Directions

1. Prepare 200g pork belly and season with salt and pepper.

2. Marinate the pork belly in maesil wine or maesil extract that has been mixed with soju for three to six hours in the refrigerator.

3. Wrap the marinated pork belly in cooking foil and store in freezer for use whenever needed or grill right away.

(Recipes courtesy of Chungmewon)

Friday, June 8, 2012

Janggukbap (rice in beef soup)


Janggukbap (Institute of Traditional Korean Food)
Janggukbap is a dish made of cooked white rice in long-simmered beef broth, seasoned with soy sauce. In the olden days, when a big event or festival took place in the royal court, janggukbap was served to the mobilized soldiers, musicians, dancers and singers because the dish is convenient for serving to many people.

Ingredients

300 g non-glutinous rice, 2 cups water

Broth : 200 g beef (brisket, shank), 1/5 ea radish, 12 cups water

Seasoning sauce ①: 1 tsp clear soy sauce, 2 tsp minced green onion, 1 tsp minced garlic, 1/8 tsp ground black pepper

80 g soaked bracken

80 g skinned bellflower roots, 1 tsp salt

150 g bean sprouts, 1/2 cup water, 1/4 tsp salt

Seasoning sauce ②: 1/2 tbsp clear soy sauce, 1/2 tbsp minced green onion,1 tsp minced garlic, 1 tsp sesame salt, 1 tsp sesame oil

1 tbsp edible oil

1 tsp clear soy sauce

1 1/2 tsp salt

4 bowls warm steamed rice


1. Wash the non-glutinous rice, soak in water for 30 min. and drain with a strainer for 10 min.

2. Clean the blood off of the beef, and put the beef and radish in the pot. Pour water into the pot and heat it up for 10 min. on high heat. When it boils, lower the heat to medium, boil it for another 20 min. Take the radish out from the pot and simmer the rest for 40 more minutes. Take the beef out and cool the broth down and filter through cotton cloths (1.3 kg).

3. Cut off the durable part of the bracken, wash it and cut it into 6 cm-long (75 g) pieces.

4. Cut the bellflower roots 6 cm long, 0.3 cm wide/thick. Sprinkle with salt, rinse in water and squeeze the water out (65 g). Remove the heads and tails of bean sprouts, and wash them cleanly (140 g).

5. Blend seasoning sauces ① and ②.

6. Put water and rice in the pot, and heat for 3 min. on high. When it boils, continue to boil it for another 4 min. lower the heat to medium, boil for 3 min. When the rice become sodden, lower the heat to low, and steam it for 10 min..

7. Cut the boiled beef and radish into pieces 2.5 cm wide, 3 cm long and 0.5 cm thick. Season with seasoning sauce ①.

8. Season bracken and bellflower with 2/3 of seasoning sauce ②. Preheat the frying pan and oil, stir-fry the bracken and bellflower for 2 min. respectively on medium heat.

9. Put the bean sprouts, water and salt into the pot, and heat for 1 min. on high heat. When it boils, lower the heat to medium, boil them for 3 min. and season with remained 1/3 of seasoning sauce ② (110 g).

10. Pour the broth into the pot, heat it up for 5 min. on high. When it boils, add the seasoned beef, radish, bracken, bellflower roots and bean sprouts, and boil them together for 2 min. When it boils again, lower the heat to medium, and boil for another 10 min.

11. Season with clear soy sauce and salt, and bring it to a boil.

12. Place warm steamed rice in a bowl and add the beef soup.

(Adapted from the Institute of Traditional Korean Food)

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Korean-American chef puts memories of Korea onto plate


Akira Back talks about where Korean food should be headed


Koreans who tasted a Korean-American chef’s Las Vegas cuisine in Seoul earlier this week might have found some common ground with him.

Akira Back’s seven-course Las Vegas meal was a representation of his memories of Korea and life experiences.

“When they eat it, they will go like ‘I ate this when I was little,’” Akira Back, the executive chef at the Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant & Lounge at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas, told The Korea Herald.
Chef Akira Back

At the gala dinner at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill in Seoul on Thursday and Friday the snowboarder-turned-chef served a condensed version of his specialties in Korean, Japanese and American and Western food.

“What I would like to do is to infuse Korean taste and use techniques of Japanese and French cooking,” Back said.

Just like in Las Vegas, a melting pot of different people and cultures, his cuisine has a universal aspect, but still retains a Korean flavor.

“If Korean people are eating it, they will know it’s made by a Korean chef,” he said.

“It looks very simple, like unique Japanese cuisine, but has all different tastes. I can’t deny who I am,” he added.
Jeju domi with micro kaenip, chojang
Chicken with pomme puree, balsamic chicken sauce (Sheraton Grande Walkerhill)

For example, he uses the sweet and sour red pepper sauce “chojang,” which reminds him of the experience of eating sashimi in Korea, and sesame oil for sea bream, or “domi,” from Jeju.

The use of Korean sauces is one way to bring out the Korean taste in his dishes.

“I am a big fan of ‘gochujang.’ It’s so flavorful,” Back said.

Other dishes included grilled rib eye with wasabi butter, served with kimchi broth. This kimchi did not taste like the kimchi Koreans are used to.

“Everything represents me. When you eat it, the harmony is great,” Back said.

Back’s life has been as variegated as the flavors in his cuisine.

Back dreamed of becoming a baseball player when he was in Korea until 15. He went back and forth to Japan to study and learn baseball.

“I used to play baseball with the basketball player Seo Jang-hoon,” he said. Seo used to play baseball in elementary school, he said.

His family moved to the U.S. when he was 15 and there Back became a professional snowboarder. Then he made the successful transition from snowboarding to cooking and made his name known to the world by appearing on “Iron Chef America” in 2008.

“(Throughout) my life journey I never knew that I would become a chef,” Back said.

But his different experiences in Korea, Japan and America have given him a unique ability to mix different flavors and develop his own style.

“I grew up in Korean culture eating my mom’s food. That’s why it’s very easy for me to develop the (Korean) taste, but techniques I learned from Japanese cuisine and I learned cooking in America.”

As for combining different styles while preserving Korean flavors, Back thinks the Korean government’s promotion of Korean food should seek a more universal way.

“I think they have to understand the culture they are targeting, instead of pushing what they think is Korean. It’s about harmony and environment, especially service,” Back stressed.

He said the government can do better if it “adopts some different ways and becomes more artistic” in promoting Korean food overseas rather than simply pushing traditional bibimbap and kimchi to foreigners.

As Korean food gains popularity outside the country, he hopes to open a restaurant in Korea in the future to have more people taste his food.

His plan starts with London next year, opening his first overseas restaurant. He has other large cities in mind for restaurant openings.

“I want to go global,” he said.

Is he coming to Korea?

“If timing is right, why not? You never know. Dreams do come true, fingers crossed,” he said.

By Lee Woo-young (wylee@heraldm.com)

Maejakgwa (fried ribbon cookies)


Maejakgwa (Institute of Traditional Korean Food)
Maejakgwa is a type of cookie made by kneading wheat flour with salt and ginger juice. It is sliced thinly and slit, then flipped over after squeezing one end into the slit. The cookies are fried in oil, coated with sugar syrup, and sprinkled with pine nut and cinnamon powder. Maejakgwa gets its name from its shape, which is similar to a sparrow (jak) in an apricot (maehwa) tree.

Ingredients
● white dough : 70g wheat flour, 0.5g salt, 30g ginger juice

● pink color dough : 25g wheat flour, 0.2g salt, 1 g strawberry powder, 15g ginger juice

● mugwort color dough : 25g wheat flour, 0.2g salt, 1 g mugwort powder, 15g ginger juice

● yellow dough : 25g wheat flour, 0.2g salt, 2g (gardenia 2g, water 30g) gardenia water, 10g ginger juice

● syrup: 80g sugar, 1/2 cup water

● 6g pine nuts powder


1. Sprinkle salt on the each wheat flour and sieve.

2. Knead white wheat flour with ginger juice and add strawberry powder, mugwort powder, and gardenia water to the other three lots of wheat flour, mix them thoroughly individually, and knead with ginger juice.

3. Wrap each piece of dough with a cotton cloth and let sit for 20 minutes.

4. Roll the white dough until it is 0.2 cm thick, and divide it into three parts. Roll the three pieces of colored dough to the same thickness. Stick each piece of colored dough flat against one of the white dough parts, and roll them until they are 0.2 cm thick.

5. Cut the rolled dough into 2x4 cm strips, then make three slits lengthways, push one end through the center slit, then flip over.

6. Put sugar and water in the pot, boil it on low heat for 15 minutes to make syrup.

7. Pour edible oil into the pan and heat it up to 130 Celsius, put the cookies in the pan and let sit for two minutes. Turn over, and fry for another two minutes, and drain off the oil on a strainer.

8. Then put the fried cookies into the syrup to coat them. Place the cookies on a dish and sprinkle with pine nuts powder.

Tips
● The traditional twisted cookie is white and much bigger.

● These snacks are also known as “Taraegwa.”

● Saturated omija water (omija: water = 1 : 2) may be used for pink dough.

(Adapted from the Institute of Traditional Korean Food)